“Modelling is not a beauty contest”: From refugee camps to beyond – how Joan Okorodudu is changing the narrative about African models

In a world where unrealistic beauty standards have been the bane of the modelling industry for many moons, buzzwords such as diversity and inclusivity have become fashionable and routinely bandied about by many industry honchos these days.

But with token diversity in fashion still the normal, pushing for more African models on the international scene calls for resolute tenacity.

And if tenacity had a name, it would be Joan Okorodudu – founder of ISIS Models, arguably one of Africa’s most prolific modelling agencies, which is reportedly one with the most active African models working with the big international brands.

However, although described by many as the African doyen in this field, Joan (a former beauty queen and medal-winning Olympic athlete) knows too well the challenges of this competitive industry and is therefore very aware of the dangers of selling false hope to the models that she scouts and brings under her wing.

She is also acutely mindful that “modelling is not a beauty contest”, and that it is not just about models leaving the confines of their challenging environments. She aims to allow them to go further beyond the aesthetics of beauty and being catwalk clothing horses, in order to support their families and communities for the long term.

Apart from running ISIS Models, Joan is also the founder of the long-running Nigeria’s Next Super Model and Africa Next Super Model. The latter was recently held in Nairobi Kenya to much pomp, resulting in the crowning of 19-year-old Chol Khan, a South Sudanese refugee from Kakuma Refugee Camp in north-west Kenya.

Against all odds, Joan’s passion for these events is legendary and has won her respect from many industry peers, including this publication – the New African Woman. For many years we have followed and noted her unwavering mission to find, nurture, support and bring African models onto the international fashion and modelling stages, with unmatched and resolute vim and vigour. And she has results to show for it.

In recent times, Joan has also ventured ISIS models into Kakuma refugee camp in Kenya– one of the largest in the world, to scout for models in the hope of giving these stunning boys and girls a chance at international work that could better their lives and of their families.

Strict rules by both the United Nations Refugee Agency and the Kenyan government apply and must be strictly adhered to before these models can be scouted and taken out of the camp. Joan’s Isis models as the mother agency, and other international agencies she works with cannot therefore scout for these models without written permissions and commitments to the welfare and wellbeing of the refugee models they recruit.

However, like in any other industry, success is not always guaranteed. Some have hit success, and others have not. The same applies to many other models internationally (let alone any job). Not everyone hits the success button – refugee or not. However, Kakuma has produced some of the industry’s biggest names in modelling, such as the model-of-the-moment Adut Akech and Halima Aden.

Successful veteran models such as Iman, Alek Wek, Duckie Thot and Ajak Deng made it big as refugee citizens in the West, albeit against many barriers.

It was therefore a tale of two tales when a recent report in an English broadsheet attempting to tarnish the scouting and casting of models from Kakuma, was countered by some of the very models scouted who threw their full support behind Isis Models and its co-agencies, for the opportunity they have been given to try their lack on the international scene. Most of these refugee models are now sought-after catwalk and billboard staples, for major brands including Gucci, Balmain, Valentino, Miu Miu, Bottega Veneta, Tom Ford, Hermes, Trussardi, Moncler, The Row, Ferrari, Missoni and many more. Some of them have also landed coveted international magazine covers including Vogue Arabia (featuring Athiec Geng) and Spanish Vogue featuring (Nyarach Ayuel – below)

This is a chance which the 2023 Africa next Top Model Chol Khan, hopes she will be accorded:

“I am so happy that I won Africa’s Next Top Model.  My hope is to find success and help move my mum and siblings from the refugee camp to a nice house in Nairobi. I am so grateful to Mama Joan and Isis Models for this opportunity,” she tells us.

As for Joan herself, her determination to flip the negative stereotyping of Africa, is unshakable: “I will continue to do what I do, no matter how they try to bring me down. My mantra is to do good and just, no matter what is thrown at you… in the many years of scouting these amazing young African models, we have been able to show the world that something good can come out of Africa – even from refugee camps.  We have been able to change the narrative and change lives at the same time. And I will continue to make my contribution. We need to show the world that Africans can do these good things, and not always be the source of negative narratives, as others want it to be.”

Joan is also working with a team filming Runway to Redemption, a documentary feature about the lives, tenacity and fortitude of the young women and men from the Kakuma refugee camp. The film traces their journeys to becoming successful professional international runway models and how to positively navigate the industry.

The documentary also touches on other pertinent issues such as child marriage, human trafficking, as well as refugee rights and women empowerment.

For many years to come, no conversation about fashion modelling
in Africa will be complete without Joan Okorodudu being mentioned. We are here for it.

As for ANSM 2023 Chol Khan? We watch with bated breath what path she will travel.