Diversifying modelling: Africa’s Next Super Model shines on as it crowns new star – Chol Tot Nyang
While diversity and inclusivity on the international modelling scene remain arguably questionable, the talent search Africa’s Next Super Model is resolute in its quest to discover African models from all backgrounds, and propelling them onto the global fashion world.
Be it from the streets of Lagos or Kigali, a mall in Nairobi, to the underserved yet talent-packed Kakuma refugee camp, Africa’s Next Super Model is casting its net far and wide to discover the continent’s next big name in modelling.
This year, that name is Chol Tot Nyang – who emerged as the winner of Africa’s Next Super Model 2024 event, which took place in Nairobi, last Saturday 9 November.
The statuesque 18-year-old from Kakuma refugee camp, who has not modelled before, beat off 16 other finalists to emerge winner of this increasingly popular modelling talent show – a brainchild of Joan Okorodudu – a doyen of the industry who has helped discover, nature and catapult some of Africa’s most extraordinary raw talent to the highest echelons of fashion and modelling.
Chol will be following in the footsteps of not only the 2023 winner Chol Khan (who has had an amazing year and walked for mega brands including Hermes and AcneStudio) but an impressive roll call of other models from Joan’s Isis Models Agency, who are catwalk and billboard staples, for major brands including Gucci, Balmain, Valentino, Miu Miu, Bottega Veneta, Tom Ford, Hermes, Trussardi, Moncler, The Row, Ferrari, Missoni and many more.
Some of them have also landed coveted international magazine covers including Vogue Arabia (featuring Athiec Geng) and Spanish Vogue featuring (Nyarach Ayuel).
As CEO and founder of both Isis Models and Africa’s Next Super Model, Joan is also keen on using her platforms to showcase and celebrate Africa’s multicultural identity and the broad talent across the entire creative and cultural industries ecosystem.
As such, ANSM collaborates with African designers, photographers, make-up artists, musicians and hairstylists who all come together to make the event the success it has come to be noted for. Famed and iconic London-based Nigerian designer Adebayo Jones headlined the catwalk show with his impressive collection to an ecstatic crowd. Another crowd-pleaser was the local Daima Mkenya Africa, founded by Mrs. Zahra Balewah Moi who showcased their patriotic fabric which featured the Kenyan flag.
Of note at this year’s event was a collaboration with American hair and beauty brand Design Essentials who have thrown their weight and sponsorship to support not only ANSM, but the recently launched RUNWAYS TO FREEDOM, Isis Models’ trademarked Nonprofit talent management arm which is focusing on empowering and improving the lives of young Africans in the modelling and creative arts industries, with a holistic and sustainable approach.
Speaking at the ANSM pre-event press conference an impassioned Cornell McBride Jr – President of Design Essentials who flew in from the company’s HQ in Atlanta to attend the event told the gathered media:
“Our community has always been important to us whether in the United States or here in Africa. We passionately believe that it is key for us to support issues that are important to our customers and their communities. That is our driving force. So when Joan came in to see us, we could see her energy and passion, two or three minutes in a conversation I was like, okay… yes we are in, we are doing this. We saw that this is an important cause, and understanding the stories and journeys of these young ladies has been amazing. So we are here to support as a way of saying thank you to this amazing community, so that these stories can continue to be told. Life is not just about money, but also about purpose and impact. What you take out, you must put back is one of our driving forces.”
In Africa, where the creative industry is customary held back due to limited funding, securing such partnerships with global and renowned sponsors such as Design Essential is not only welcome but key for its growth, and by extension, that of an economic sector which can uplift many under-privileged youths, women and their communities, with positive economic outcomes.
“Africa Next Super Model’s growth reflects a big shift in the fashion industry. We are reshaping narratives around African beauty and challenging stereotypes. I am dedicated to both helping transform the lives of these young girls and boys, and to positioning Africa as a vital contributor to global fashion and beauty. This creates jobs and also builds confidence among our people, especially the youth. But to fully achieve more success, we need a lot of support,” says Joan whose mantra is that shows like ANSM “are not a beauty contests”, like pageants. “We are looking for models, not beauty queens,” she stresses.
ANSM collaborate with international modelling agencies including her long-term partners Select Global and its CEO Matteo Puglisi, and many others who collectively help increase the contestants’ global visibility and scouting for major shows and campaigns. No less than ten global modelling agencies turned up at the Nairobi event – clear sign of its importance and proof that the world is ready to embrace the extraordinary modelling talent emanating from Africa.
“Our aim is to contribute even more to the successful representation of African models…these girls are consolidating that representation in [global] fashion and we hope that once again this year we will have discovered yet another star in the winner. But normally all the top five manage to have a good career, and that is our aim. Apart from the business side, it is great to see that our work gives these opportunities and hope to other young girls interested in fashion, that they can make it if they meet the requirements and work hard,” said Puglisi.
He went on to give an admirable roll call of big-name brands which have booked and are working with girls from the show, including the inaugural ANSM winner, Marvella Niteka from Rwanda, who has gone on to walk for Valentino, Giambattista Valli, and Dior.
The success of the ANSM and Isis Models therefore, also puts paid to the cynical arguments and jaundiced reports about scouting talent from less privileged communities, including refugee camps such as Kakuma, which was once “home” to some of the industry’s biggest names in modelling, such as Adut Akech and Halima Aden.
Successful veteran models such as Iman, Alek Wek, Duckie Thot and Ajak Deng made it big as refugee citizens in the West, albeit against many barriers.
What ANSM is proving is that everyone, no matter where they come from, deserves a chance at a better life.
Here, therefore, is to Chol Tot Nyang and many more other talents that will come after her. Africa has what it takes.